Is it Kyoto… is it Tokyo… no, it’s Tsuwano, a small but perfectly formed gem of Western Honshu that manages to capture some of the quintessential Japan experiences without the crowds, all within easy walking or cycling distance. Just one of hundreds of JapanMan recommendations you’ll rarely find on the usual sites.
The pristine pedestrianised main street is blessedly free of overhead wiring. Koi carp – once kept in case of a bad harvest – still swim in the streams either side of the road. A couple of original samurai dwellings can be entered for a taste of Edo-period life, as well as Ohara church (Tsuwano being a historic home of Christianity in western Japan).
Beyond the main street there’s the mysterious green lanterns of Takodani Inari shrine (sister to the more famous Fushimi Inari in Kyoto), with its vermillion torii gates and rare glimpses of robed priestesses. Yomei-ji, one of my favourite thatched roof temples, lies a short bicycle ride from the town. Come at the right time of year and you can even see traditional yabusame horseback archery, then stay the night at the Meigetsu, one of the cosiest ryokans I’ve experienced.
Contact me to see how you can work this and many more off-the-beaten track locations into a workable itinerary, with unlimited follow-up support by email and WhatsApp for the fine-tuning of your trip.
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